There are pink peppercorns, meat, salted licorice and a firm tannic structure through the mid-palate and finish. The wine is abundant, but it is stabilized and grounded by a flurry of savory tannin and a spine of fine, salty acid. The fruit is really impressive; it almost overflows the glass, but it’s brought to heel by acid and tannin, so you know it only needs a decant to allow it to unravel and unfurl. RP