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Lovely flavors of apricot, dried tangerine, pineapple and papaya rush along, supported by hazelnut, frangipane and coconut notes. Despite the depth, this is very, very pure, with filigreed acidity carrying the long, long finish. WS
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d'Yquem Sauternes 1er Cru 2007
Intense, with a wide range of maple, hazelnut-singed piecrust and apple crumble notes, all offset beautifully by a taut orange zest accent that imparts tension and length to balance the broad, rich core. Ends with a viscous feel and lingering energy. WS
$ 5,890
d'Yquem Sauternes 1er Cru 2010
Rather restrained now, showing terrific purity and precision, with dried pineapple, persimmon and mango notes, offset by racy honeysuckle, white peach and chamomile hints. The extremely long finish sails on, switching to yet another spectrum, with green almond, green plum and coconut accents. A thread of quinine stitches this up at the very end. Best from 2020 through 2050. WS
$ 4,620
d'Yquem Sauternes 1er Cru 2005
The 2005 Chateau d’Yquem is similar to the 2006 in that it deserves aeration. The bouquet is well-defined, although there is clearly some new oak that will need another two or three years to fully integrate. The aromatics seem to show a little more botrytis than the 2006, richer and headier. The palate is unctuous on the entry, beautifully balanced and lacquers the mouth in pure honeyed fruit interlaced with white pepper, quince jus and nectarine. Comparing the two, the 2006 has a little more tension and race, although the 2005 has a touch more persistency. The 2006 may well turn out to be the better of the two vintages in the long run (hence the plus sign), although the 1995 is a Yquem with panache to spare. Drink now-2040. RP
$ 5,480
d'Yquem Sauternes 1er Cru 2009
The 2009 has a glorious bouquet with luscious honey, lemon curd, white peach and quince that is crystalline and utterly refined. It demonstrates wonderful delineation and pinpoint focus. The palate is brilliantly balanced with life-affirming acidity. There are notes of quince and white peach once again, marrying with hints of light honey and crushed stone, finishing with convincing confidence on the composed, refined finish. This is not quite as ethereal as the 2001 – but it comes damn close. Drink 2014-2050. RP
$ 7,890
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