The 1996 Colheita Tawny Port adds a layer of classic, "old Tawny" concentration of flavor to the finish, making it far more complex than Sogevinus' fresher 2000 Cálem, also reviewed. The finish is laced with notes of Brandy and just a hint or two of molasses. Of the youngsters, this is the more intriguing because of its complexity, although the Cálem is the sexier. This understated 1996 is also a bit firmer in the mid-palate and lingers longer, showing notable grip on the finish. RP
Mature, with golden raisin, white ginger, peach and green tea flavors that are seamlessly entwined, backed by a light salted caramel note on the rounded, open finish. WS