A mineral-driven Champagne, creamy and compact, this deftly meshes a layer of smoke, chalk and saline with detailed flavors of glazed apple and apricot, roasted hazelnut and ginger-infused pastry cream carried on a raw silky mousse. The fine texture softens the firm spine of chiseled acidity that structures the wine, and hints of white blossoms, Meyer lemon and oyster shell play on the finish. WS