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This cuvee (from an 11+ acre vineyard planted on a clay and limestone plateau above Pavie-Decesse) performed better in January than they did last year. Minuscule yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare and bottling without fining or filtration after 24 months in new oak have resulted in an outstanding 2003 La Mondotte. Revealing more texture, depth, and persistence than I initially predicted, it possesses a dense purple color along with a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, graphite, espresso roast, new saddle leather, and truffles. This opulent, dense, full-bodied, gloriously rich effort can be drunk in 1-3 years, but because of its power, concentration, and overall equilibrium will keep for two decades. RP
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La Mondotte St Emilion GCC 2000
In two tastings this garagiste wine performed as if it were one of the wines of the vintage. Proprietor Stefan von Neipperg continues to lavish abundant attention on La Mondotte (as he does with all his estates), and the 2000 (80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) boasts an inky/blue/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of graphite, caramel, toast, blackberries, and creme de cassis. A floral component also emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Extremely dense, full-bodied, and built for another twenty years of cellaring, I thought it would be close to full maturity, but it appears to need another 4-5 years of bottle age. It should age effortlessly for 2-3 decades. RP
$ 5,300
La Mondotte St Emilion GCC 2007
Tiny yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare and a typical blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc (14.5% natural alcohol) have resulted in a soft, plump, 1997-ish (which is drinking brilliantly) wine. It offers an inky/purple color, plenty of sweet mulberry and boysenberry fruit intermixed with hints of espresso and toast, and a textured, full-bodied, fleshy mouthfeel. There is lots of succulence for a 2007, and this soft, delicious St.-Emilion should drink nicely for 15+ years. RP
$ 1,960
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